Canton Grill
廣東酒家
Canton Grill served the community for 76 years under the stewardship of the Louis family, becoming a beloved landmark before closing in 2020.
Canton Grill was more than just a restaurant—it was a home away from home for countless families and a living testament to the resilience and hard work of Chinese immigrants in Portland. For 76 years, it stood as a cornerstone of the community, embodying the dreams, struggles, and triumphs of the Louis family, who built and sustained the business over three generations.
Before the Louis family took ownership in 1944, the name “Canton Grill” had briefly appeared at the same site under different management during the 1930s. But it was the Louis family who gave it lasting meaning—transforming it into a beloved institution and anchoring it in the story of Chinese American perseverance in Portland.
Through candid interviews with Fred Louis Jr. and his daughter Cindy Louis, the 2nd- and 3rd-generation owners, the rich history of Canton Grill is shared from those who experienced its legacy firsthand.
Video summary:
- Fred and Cindy introduce themselves and their relations to Canton Grill, sharing its significance and what it meant to them and the community.
Fred’s father (Fred Louis Sr.) arrived in New York City as a young boy during the Great Depression. Like many immigrants, Fred Sr. began with work in a hand laundry and later in restaurants, often paid in meals rather than wages. Despite these hardships, he earned a degree in chemistry from Tri-State College in Indiana with dreams of starting a cosmetics factory—but doors remained closed.
Video summary:
- Fred discusses the discrimination his family faced, particularly how his father struggled to find work despite his qualifications.
- He reflects on the broader context of anti-Chinese sentiment, saying, “When you do a job application, and your name is LOUIE, they just put you in the pile they don’t call back. My father, despite being college-educated, couldn’t get a job. He even changed our last name (to ‘Louis’) to sound more American to get employed.”
Life in the United States was fraught with challenges for Chinese immigrants, as discrimination was widespread and opportunities were scarce. For Fred’s father, the promise of building a career with his chemistry degree was met with closed doors. The harsh realities of the era pushed many Chinese immigrants into marginalized industries, and when the family relocated to Portland, they faced similar barriers.
Video summary:
Fred recounts, “When my father first came to Portland, he worked for a relative who had a gambling house. But one night, a fire destroyed the place. That fire pushed him into the restaurant business. We were barely getting by with the gambling house, but after it was gone, we had no choice.”
In Portland, Fred Sr. found an opportunity to start over. In 1944, he and a business partner acquired a struggling restaurant at 82nd and Division—an existing Chinese eatery that had briefly operated under the same name, Canton Grill, during the early 1930s. Long-time Oregonian, Walter Ernest Lundberg, who owned the property originally had a grocery store which failed during the Depression. Mr. Lundberg then decided to convert the grocery store building into a restaurant called The Canton Grill, which was managed by his brother-in-law, Ivan Hamerlynck. Chef Lee Kim, hired from Portland’s Chinatown, led the kitchen. Though the restaurant eventually closed, it introduced American Chinese cuisine to the area during a time when such establishments were rare on the east side.
The decision to take over the restaurant at 82nd Avenue—formerly a grocery store and then a short-lived Chinese restaurant in the 1930s—was shaped by both necessity and vision. The site, while not centrally located, presented a rare and affordable opportunity. The original building featured a row of single-pane windows facing west along 82nd Avenue, but as auto-oriented development grew, visibility from the road and easy parking access became essential. Over time, the windows were filled in to improve climate control, safety, and flexibility for the restaurant’s evolving needs.
Video summary:
Fred discusses the location selection, saying, “Reality is, what’s available. The building had been vacant for years, probably since the Depression. I think the landlord was desperate, and the rent was cheap. 82nd Avenue was far from the city center, not an ideal spot, but it was what we could afford. My father saw it as an opportunity, a chance to build something despite the odds.”
Fred Sr. retained elements of the space, including a backlit glass dragon behind the bar from the earlier iteration. But from that point forward, it was the Louis family who redefined the restaurant—transforming it into a thriving, multigenerational institution built through perseverance, adaptation, and connection to the community.
Canton Grill quickly evolved into more than just a place to dine—it became a second home for many in the community. The restaurant’s warm atmosphere and hearty meals drew families from across the region.
Among those who helped build this legacy was Wayne Leong, a skilled and charismatic chef who worked at Canton Grill for many years. Fred Sr. oversaw front-of-house operations, welcoming customers with care and hospitality, while Chef Wayne Leong led the kitchen with energy and pride, known for his everyday presence often in a tank top, shorts, and flip flops. According to Walter Eric Lundberg, the grandson of Walter Ernest Lundberg, Wayne would stop by his grandparents’ garden to gather garlic and fresh chives, building lasting ties to the neighborhood.
Cindy recalls her childhood days at the restaurant, where she and her sisters transformed the dining room tables into their own personal playground. “It was like a separate living room,” she reminisces.
Canton Grill was renowned for its signature dishes, many of which became community staples—from the famous Pork Chow Mein to the beloved Honolulu cocktail.
Video summary:
Cindy talks about the restaurant’s iconic dishes and the mayhem of the anniversary celebrations, bringing a lively and personal touch to the legacy of Canton Grill. The anniversary button give-aways became a popular collector’s item!
Cindy recalls, “Every August, during our anniversary month, we would offer $1 bowls of pork noodles and discounted Honolulu cocktails. It was absolute chaos, but it was our way of giving back to the community. My dad would always have a stash of Chinese soup spoons hidden away specifically for this day.”
The COVID-19 pandemic brought unprecedented challenges to many small businesses, and Canton Grill was no exception. After decades of serving the community, the decision to close was not made lightly. For the Louis family, it was a bittersweet moment—marking the end of an era while honoring the years of hard work and resilience that built the Canton Grill legacy.
Video summary:
Fred discusses the challenges during the COVID-19 pandemic, saying, “We were barely holding on. After shutting down for a few months, our staff had to find other jobs. It just seemed like the right time to close. We had built up our crew over years, and after the shutdown, it was impossible to start over again.
As the Louis family reflects on their journey, they feel a deep sense of pride in their accomplishments. Canton Grill was more than a restaurant—it symbolized resilience, community, and the enduring spirit of Chinese immigrant families.
In 2022, APANO acquired the Canton Grill property with a commitment to preserving its legacy, with the plan to develop the site for community-serving purposes, continuing the tradition of Canton Grill as a place that brings people together and supports the needs of the community.
Video summary:
- A heartfelt closing message from Fred and Cindy, expressing their gratitude to the community and sharing their hopes for preserving the memories and legacy of Canton Grill.
- ‘We didn’t just want to be a restaurant; we wanted to be part of the community’s story,’ Cindy says. ‘And I think we achieved that.’
